Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication.

A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection.

The SPB383

Initial thoughts

Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio.

The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette.

The SPB381

Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial.

That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price.

At US$1,500 for the standard models and US$1,700 for the limited edition, the Diver’s GMT sits in a sweet spot. They are affordable in absolute terms, but also well positioned relative to Seiko’s other watches, offering much better fit and finish than the entry-level Seiko 5 Sports GMT for instance.

A practical retro diver

The Diver’s GMT is modelled on the Seiko Hi-Beat 300 m diver ref. 6159-7001 that was released in 1968. It retains the same overall design, with the exception of a relocated date window that went from three o’clock to between four and five o’clock.

The new GMT makes it debut in three distinct colourways: a pair of regular product models in green (SPB381) and black (SPB383), as well as a limited edition with an pale blue dial (SPB385) that’s part of the brand’s offerings to mark the 110th anniversary of its first watch.

The limited edition features a textured dial similar to that found in last year’s Prospex SPB333. According to Seiko, the texture is inspired by glaciers, a nod to the Japanese expeditions to the polar regions in the 1960s and 1970s, whose members were all kitted out with Seiko timekeepers.

The “ice blue” SPB385

All of three versions share the same case that’s 42 mm in diameter and 12.9 mm high. It retains the design of the 1968 original with the cushion-shaped outline and the crown at four o’clock. As is standard for Prospex dive watches, the case is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert.

The SPB385 is delivered with an additional grey and white fabric strap woven from recycled PET bottles with a traditional technique known as ‘seichu’

The Diver’s GMT is powered by the brand-new cal. 6R54. A variant of the automatic cal. 6R35, the new calibre has been reworked to add the second time zone hand along with a slightly lengthened power reserve of 72 hours.

Because the second time zone hand is an add-on to an existing calibre, the watch has to be set to local time before adjusting the 24-hour hand to show home time. This is done with the crown in its second position; turning the crown clockwise advances the 24-hour hand while turning it counterclockwise changes the date.

The 6R54

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT
Ref. SPB381 (green)
Ref. SPB383 (black)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (6 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,500

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean “Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary”
Ref. SPB385

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.9 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 200 m

Movement: Cal. 6R54
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (6 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet, additional fabric strap

Limited edition: 4000 pieces
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,700

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design.

The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399).

The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399

Initial thoughts

Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial.

While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models.

Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly refined in both style and finish. This is most obvious in the lugs, which now boast a more elegant form with a prominent polished bevel. The new case design is not only more attractive but also more suited to the dial decoration.

The new Presage watches don’t cost very much more than their predecessors, so they continue to offer good value while being more appealing, thanks in particular to the revamped case.

It’s all in the face

The limited-edition quartet are the first watches to sport the redesigned Presage case. Conceived to appear slimmer on the wrist, the new case also features more refined details, most notably slimmer lugs with a polished bevel along the outer edge.

Alongside the new case is a revamped dial. Unlike past Presage models that used either Roman numerals or baton indices, the new dials feature both in an alternating sequence. The use of alternating indices gives the dial a more modern look while complementing the sub-dials and indicators better.

The SPB393 with a white enamel dial

The quartet of limited editions is actually made up of a pair of distinct models. Each pair of models share the same case and movement but differ in terms of dial finish. The first pair is made up of the the SPB393 with a fired enamel dial and the SPB395 with an urushi dial.

Featuring the familiar red numeral at 12 o’clock – a detail taken from Seiko’s first wristwatch of 1913 – the fired enamel dial is produced by the Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., where a team led by veteran craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa has been supplying enamel dials for the Presage since 2016.

The SPB393

Executed in a more unusual colour of warm brown, the dial of the SPB395 is finished in traditional Japanese lacquer or urushi. Created with sap from the lacquer tree, urushi is applied to a variety of everyday objects such as bowls and chopsticks, and even samurai armour, for both decoration and protection. The urushi dials are produced in the workshop of Isshu Tamura, a lacquer artist who is also responsible for the dial of the recent Grand Seiko “First” SBGW295 in titanium.

Both the SPB393 and SPB395 have a slightly more compact case of 40.2 mm by 12.8 mm compared to the other two watches in the quartet. Both are powered by the 6R24 movement, an automatic calibre that includes a power reserve display, date, and day of the week. As a result of the triple complication, the dial has a pleasing vertical symmetry with each displayed on a fan-shaped scale.

The SPB395

With a case that is slightly larger, the SPB397 and SPB399 also feature slightly more elaborate dial decoration.

Both share the same case that is 40.6 mm wide and 14.1 mm high, while the movement is the 6R27. The movement has a power reserve display at nine and the date at six, creating an asymmetrical dial layout.

The SPB397 has a dial made of Arita porcelain, Chinaware produced in town of Arita. The very first porcelain produced in Japan was made in Arita, thanks to the clay found around the town.

The SPB397

Equally traditional and artisanal is the Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399. More widely known as Owari Shippo or Owari cloisonné, the enamelling technique was conceived in the 19th century by craftsmen who were inspired by enamelled objects imported from Holland.

The enamelled dial is the work of Ando Cloisonne Co., where Wataru Totani leads a team of enamellers who first glaze the patterned dial base with liquid enamel, then fire it in an oven to melt the enamel.

Once fired, the dial is polished to give it a reflective finish that reveals the translucency of the enamel, through which the stamped motif on the dial is visible.

The SPB399

Key Facts and Price

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series
Ref. SPB393 (enamel)
Ref. SPB395 (urushi)

Diameter: 40.2 mm
Height: 12.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R24
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day of the week, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces each
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: SPB393 – US$1,450; SPB395 – US$ 1,850

Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series
Ref. SPB397 (Arita porcelain)
Ref. SPB399 (Shippo enamel)

Diameter: 40.6 mm
Height: 14.1 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 6R27
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, and power reserve indicator
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Leather with folding clasp

Limited edition: 1,500 pieces for SPB397; 800 pieces for SPB399
Availability: Starting June 2023 at Seiko boutiques and retailers
Price: SPB397 – US$1,850; SPB399 – US$2,050

For more, visit seikowatches.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Seiko.

Correction March 10, 2023: The first Seiko wristwatch was made in 1913, and not 1923 as stated in an earlier version of the the story.