The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre.

The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot.

W&W will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W. They will be available for purchase on the W&W website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld.

Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine.

The public days of W&W bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In contrast, SIHH was traditionally an invitation-only event focused on higher-end brands.

Event details

Watches & Wonders Geneva takes place from March 27 to April 2, 2023, at Palexpo in Geneva, Switzerland.

The first five days of the event will only be open to invited members of the trade, namely press, retailers, and clients of the participating brands. The fair will open to the public on April 1 and 2.

Tickets for the public days will available starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1) on Watchesandwonders.com.

Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise.

First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details.

The large model in steel with an automatic movement

Initial thoughts

Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000.

It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one.

The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, the large model in steel, has an automatic movement. That said, based on past practice it is likely Cartier will fill out the range with more variants as soon as its commercial success is certain.

Actor Rami Malek with the large model

Geometric lines and a bracelet

The redesign of the Tank Francaise appears to be mostly about giving it better details and cleaner lines. So instead of the printed numerals of the original, for instance, it now gets applied metallic stickers that give the dial a little bit more depth.

Naturally the case and bracelet stick to the same design, but practically every detail has been revised. The crown, for example, is less prominent now as it sits in a recess on the side of the case. And the bracelet better integrates into the case design thanks to a single-piece end link and redesigned links that match the case in both style and thickness.

The new Tank Francaise is available in steel or 18k yellow gold. Both the steel and gold models are identical in terms of overall design, though they differ in terms of the dial. The gold models have a champagne-tone dial with radial brushing and black numerals, while the steel models have a silver dial and silver numerals.

The medium model in yellow gold with diamonds

The steel models are offered in three sizes, with only the large model being automatic, while the medium and small models are both quartz. But the gold models are only in medium or small, with the option of a diamond-set bezel.

From left: large, medium, and small

The singular automatic model is powered by the cal. 1853 MC, an automatic movement with a 37-hour power reserve. It’s actually the Sellita SW150, a compact movement for ladies’ watches, explaining the short power reserve.

Key Facts and Price

Cartier Tank Francaise
Ref. CRWSTA0067 (large model, steel, automatic)
Ref. CRWSTA0074 (medium model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWSTA0065 (small model, steel, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0113 (medium model, yellow gold, quartz)
Ref. CRWGTA0114 (small model, yellow gold, quartz)

Diameter: Large 36.7 mm by 30.5 mm; medium 32 mm by 27 mm; small 25.7 mm by 21.2 mm
Height: Large 10.1 mm; medium 7.1 mm; small 6.8 mm
Material: Steel or 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m
Crystal: Sapphire

Movement: 1853 MC (Sellita SW150) for automatic model; or “high autonomy” quartz
Functions: Automatic has hours, minutes, seconds, and date; quartz has hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 37 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price:
In steel, from 4,950 Singapore dollars for small model, to 7,700 Singapore dollars for large model
In gold, from 29,700 Singapore dollars for small model without diamonds, to 43,600 Singapore dollars for medium model with diamonds

For more, visit Cartier.com

Correction January 18, 2023: The 1853 MC is a Sellita calibre and not an in-house movement.