Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner.

And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces.

Initial thoughts

Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package.

Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals.

But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches.

And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details.

Atypically Moser

The Heritage line is modelled on the brand’s early 20th century wristwatches that were often exported to the Russian Empire, then the firm’s biggest market, explaining the Cyrillic logo on the dial.

The dial is a medium grey that darkens only slightly towards the edges, resulting in a smoked finish that’s not as pronounced as on the brand’s usual fume dial.

It features applied numerals that are cast from Globolight, a ceramic composite that’s impregnated with Super-Luminova so it glows in the dark.

The case is simple with thin lugs inspired by the wire lugs of early 20th century wristwatches. Made of an copper-aluminium bronze alloy, the case is 42 mm in diameter, which is typical for a pilot’s watch. But it’s relatively thin at just 11.1 mm high.

Movement-wise the Since 1828 relies on the HMC 200. It’s one of Moser’s simpler calibres, but high-spec for a base-model movement. It boasts a free-sprung balance – attached to Moser’s own hairspring made by its sister company – as well as a three-day power reserve.

Key Facts and Price

H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”
Ref. 8200-1701

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Bronze
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HMC 200
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 days

Strap: Grey kudu leather strap with bronze pin buckle, and additional strap in black fabric

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: At Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons as well as H. Moser & Cie.’s online store
Price: CHF17,900

For more, visit h-moser.com.

Launched as Dubai Watch Week opens its door, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is a limited edition created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the biggest watch retailer in the Middle East.

Like its 2019 counterpart, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is inspired by the region. The polygonal geometric pattern on the sand-coloured dial is inspired by the decorative motifs found in the architecture of the Arab world, which have their roots in Islamic ornamentation.

Initial thoughts

The DX2 is a design variant, but it manages to look quite different from standard Type 1 Slim. It’s perfect for anyone who admires the brand’s technical ingenuity while seeking something more elaborate in terms of design.

While the typical Ressence watch is all about unadorned, plain surfaces, the DX2 is decorative – and appealing for that.

The dial brings textures, colour, and reflective surfaces that are not usually found on Ressence watches, which are either appealingly minimalist or mundane depending on your perspective. So the DX2 is more engaging, while retaining all of the mechanical ingenuity that sets Ressence apart from the competition.

Because it’s mechanically identical to the standard model, the DX2 is also powered by an ETA 2892, a movement robust yet thin enough to fit the case. But the movement does come with the downside of a short, 36-hour power reserve. Still, the movement contains much impressive technical innovation, though that is all contained within the time-display module.

Patterns and textures

The copper-hued dial is finely engraved with a geometric pattern composed of polygons shaded with finely-spaced, parallel lines. Because the lines within each polygon are aligned at different angles, they catch the light differently, creating a variation in tone across the dial depending on the angle and lighting.

The rest of the watch is standard Type 1 Slim. Made of polished titanium, the case is well, slim, standing just 11 mm high. It has minimalist lugs that give the watch a compact outline, while the sapphire crystal is slightly domed to accommodate the planetary time display.

The Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) is proprietary to the brand and indicates the time with a series of discs that orbit around the central axis of the dial. With the discs, the dial indicates the hours, minutes, seconds, and day of the week. All that is driven by a separate module that is driven by the minute wheel of the ETA 2892 base movement within.

Another key feature of the watch is the crown-less case. Instead winding and setting are accomplished by a wide lever that swivels out of the case back.

Key Facts and Price

Ressence Type 1 Slim DX2

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 10 m

Movement: ROCS 1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and day of the week
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours

Strap: Tan calfskin and olive-green rubber

Limited edition: 25 pieces
Availability: Now, direct from Ressence or its retailers
Price: 22,500 Swiss francs

Price excludes taxes

For more information, visit Ressencewatches.com.

Urwerk’s entry-level – and most wearable – model from has just got more interesting at Dubai Watch Week with the new UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket, the first metal bracelet for the UR-100 line, and an integrated bracelet at that.

Bracelet aside, the UR-100V also gets a new look – muted shades of grey and almost monochromatic – giving the watch a sleek, clean look that’s handsome.

Initial thoughts

While an integrated bracelet is now the fad for high-end watches, it is relatively unusual for Urwerk. The latest UR-100 is clearly different from the typical Urwerk. Though the brand has installed bracelets on its watches in the past, they were few in number and restricted to the top-of-the-line models like the UR-210.

Despite the new(ish) look, the UR-100V is still very much an Urwerk, because the open dial with wandering hours is instantly recognisable. And the bracelet is smartly done with a minimalist style, so it doesn’t get in the way of the design.

In fact, the restrained, all-grey palette will be familiar to long-time fans of the brand. The sand-blasted case and bracelet in shades of grey call to mind earlier models like the UR-105 that was finished similarly, as well as the more recent UR-100 Gunmetal.

When this arrived in my inbox, I instantly found it attractive, but I thought the construction of bracelet was too simple. In the photos, it lacks the complexity of Urwerk’s signature cases that are finely machined.

But after seeing it in the metal I am convinced. The bracelet is precisely constructed and sturdy, yet lightweight and thin so it sits well on the wrist. It has a military-industrial, sci-fi aesthetic that’s cool.

Design wise, it doesn’t try to do too much but avoids being derivative of other fashionable luxury-sports watches.

Despite being one of the most affordable offerings from the brand, the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket costs a substantial sum. It’s priced at around US$59,000, which is about 15% more than its counterparts on a strap. That said, the cost of the bracelet is fair and on par with the norm for such things.

Grey satellites

According to Urwerk, the time display of the UR-100V is slightly upgraded over the first-generation version to improve legality: the hour numerals sit next to the red minute pointer as a result of the redesigned cover over the satellites.

The display mechanism on the front has alternating sand-blasted and brushed surfaces, creating various tones of grey that match the case

Like the case, the bracelet gets a matte, all-grey finish. It’s entirely sand-blasted – including the bevels on the edges of the links – giving it a grey colour once shade darker than the dial.

Notably, the bracelet appears integrated but the case remains unchanged from previous versions of the UR-100, so it can be replaced by a strap.

Key facts and price

Urwerk UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket

Case diameter: 41 mm
Case height: 14 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UR 12.02
Features: Satellite hours and minutes; Earth’s rotational and orbital distance
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Urwerk retailers
Price: 55,000 Swiss francs

For more, visit urwerk.com.