Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection.

The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT).

Initial thoughts

Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches.

I especially like the HMS and Chronograph.  While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well.

The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for anyone in Perpetuel’s home market.

In terms of price the Perpétuel editions do cost more than the standard Baltic models, but they are evidently different in style, while also being very small runs. Given that Baltic watches are affordable to begin with, the Perpétuel are still fair buys.

Vintage eras

The watches all share similar dimensions that suit the vintage-inspired look. The Chronograph and HMS are identical at 38 mm in diameter, while the GMT is slightly larger at 39 mm. All three, however, are 12 mm high.

The similarity between the HMS and Chronograph goes beyond the case. Both have identical dial styles – a gilt chapter ring with Eastern-Arabic numerals on a black lacquered dial – that are obviously modelled on wristwatches of the 1930s.

Clearly distinct is the GMT, which has a 1950s vibe, no doubt inspired by early GMT watches of the period. Its dial is also lacquered black, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals are found primarily on the bezel. And it is also the priciest of the trio, largely due to the movement within.

Mechanically they are quite different, explaining the difference in price. Both the HMS and Chronograph are powered by Chinese movements, which are low cost but robust and reliable, while the GMT is equipped with the Swiss-made Soprod C125.

Key Facts and Price

Baltic UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection

Diameter: 38 mm (HMS, Chronograph); 39 mm (GMT)
Height: 12 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Hesalite
Water resistance: 30 m (HMS, Chronograph), 100 m (GMT)

Movement: Miyota 821A (HMS); Seagull ST1901 (Chronograph); Soprod C125 (GMT)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds; chronograph; GMT and date
Winding: Automatic (HMS, GMT); hand wind (Chronograph)
Frequency: 3 Hz (HMS, Chronograph), 4 Hz (GMT)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 71 pieces each, and 29 three-piece box sets
Availability: Starting December 2, 2021, at 10:00 pm UAE time (GMT+4)
Price:

HMS – US$1,590, or AED5,900
Chronograph – US$1,860, or AED6,900
GMT – US$2,100, or AED7,900

For more, visit Perpetuel.com.

Correction December 2, 2021: The cases are all titanium, and not steel as indicated in an earlier version of the article.