Having made collaborations a habit, Louis Erard’s latest joint venture is with Massena Lab, an American brand that is equally adept at collaborations. Together the two have put together the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena Lab.

In contrast to its recent abstract or Bauhaus collaborations, the Louis Erard’s new regulator is resolutely classical. It takes inspiration from the aesthetics of 18th century timepieces, which were all brass, steel, and frosted gilt, explaining the colours and granular dial finish.

Initial thoughts

Demonstrating Louis Erard’s versatility when it comes to collaborations, the Massena Lab regulator is basically a new dial style for the brand’s signature model yet it manages to look different enough that it’ll please someone who already owns a Louis Erard regulator.

Although the grained dial is produced with industrial methods, it is a good approximation of a traditionally frosted dial and looks good on the wrist. Between the two I favour the gold-plated dial for its contrast, though the large case size means the rhodium version is appealing for its restrained palette.

But because the new pair are essentially the standard regulator model at heart, they also has the dimensions of the standard model, which is bigger than would be ideal, especially in terms of thickness. At the same time, the two watches are priced in an accessible fashion typical for Louis Erard – just under US$3,900 in this case – making them well-priced propositions.

Classical leanings

Inspired by 18th century clocks and pocket watches, the dial is a two-level, two-tone affair. The chapter rings and registers are silvered and raised, while the base is stamped with a pronounced graining that evokes frosted finish.

Interesting, the dial relies on a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals

The more classical of the pair is undoubtedly the version with a bright, yellow-gold plated dial. In contrast, the version with a rhodium-plated dial is almost monochromatic save for the blued steel hands, resulting in a more contemporary appearance. The two versions look quite different, despite being exactly alike save for the dial colour.

While the dial is unique to this model, the template is standard Louis Erard. The case and movement are identical to the regular-production regulator model, which is a largish 42 mm in diameter.

Combined with its 12.25 mm high, the case is chunky though it has elegant lines. The height is due in part to the Sellita SW 266-01, which is a clone of the robust but thick ETA 2824.

Key Facts and Price

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Massena LAB
Ref. 85237AA75 (gold-plated dial)
Ref. 85237AA76 (rhodium-plated dial)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.25 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Sellita SW266-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calf leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 178 pieces each
Availability: Direct from Massena Lab or Louis Erard and its retailers
Price: US$3,950 before taxes

For more information, visit louiserard.com.