Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390.

A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar.

Tondagraph GT

Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché.

Initial thoughts

The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions.

Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good as, or probably better than, the competition in the price segment.

The flagship chronograph

The Tondagraph GT is equipped with an uncommon set of complications: chronograph and annual calendar. The calendar requires only one adjustment per year in February, offering most of the convenience of a perpetual calendar, but at a far more affordable price. Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin are among the few brands to offer such watches.

Inspired by the Tonda Chronor of 2016, the 42 mm case was updated by watch designer Dino Modolo, who is probably best known for the work he did for Vacheron Constantin in the 1990s, which included the original Overseas. Mr Modolo reworked the lugs of the Chronor and added an integrated bracelet to create a modern, sporty aesthetic – no doubt to cater to today’s fashion.

The case is matched with a guilloché dial, open-worked hands tipped with black luminescence, and a big date at 12 o’clock. Orange accents dot the dial, most notably for the month and date.

Powering the Tondagraph is Parmigiani’s PF043, an automatic calibre with a 45-hour reserve that’s been sharply finished and dressed up with a 22k gold rotor.

Limited to 200 pieces, the Tondagraph GT is available in steel with a black dial, and either a rubber strap or integrated bracelet. And it starts at US$18,500, which is a reasonable proposition for a watch executed to Parmigiani’s typical level of quality.

And three hands

Featuring the time and extra-large date, the Tonda GT Black and the Tonda GT Rose Gold Blue are the two base models, offered in steel and 18k rose gold respectively.

They retain the same styling as the Tondagraph GT, with the open-worked, delta-shaped hands and a big date. The small seconds sub-dial has a little twist to make it a little more interesting, with the seconds scale arranged in two half-arcs and fitted with an asymmetrical seconds hand.

Inside is the PF044, which has a 45-hour reserve and 22k gold rotor. Both Tonda GT models are limited editions, with 250 in steel and 150 in rose gold, with the option of the bracelet that really enhances that luxury-sports watch feel.

Key facts and price

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT
Ref. PFC910

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 11.2 mm
Material: Steel or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire, sapphire case back
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: PF044
Features: Central hours and minutes, sub-dial seconds and big date
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: blue or black rubber, gold or steel integrated bracelet

Limited edition: 250 in steel, 150 in rose gold
Availability: From Parmigiani and select boutiques worldwide in August
Price: Steel on rubber – US$13,500
Steel on bracelet – US$14,500
Rose gold on rubber – US$24,900
Rose gold on bracelet – US$49,500

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT
Ref. PFC906

Case diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire, sapphire case back
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: PF043
Features: Central hours, minutes and chronograph seconds, sub-dial seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter and annual calendar with big date
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Black rubber or steel integrated bracelet

Limited edition: 200
Availability: From Parmigiani and select boutiques worldwide in August
Price: Steel on rubber – US$18,500; steel on bracelet – US$$19,500

For more, visit parmigiani.com