Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret.

Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet.

The Caliber 0200

Initial thoughts

Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos.

Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today.

But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range.

The projected retail price is US$6,000, which is fair, and probably very, very good for what it is. In fact, it might even be great value given the quality of the case and movement, though that can only be truly determined once the watch is examined in the metal.

Caliber 0200

A relatively large, robustly-constructed movement, the Caliber 0200 has a longish, 60-hour power reserve. It’s made entirely in Japan – from manufacturing of parts to finishing to assembly – and finally tested in a stringent 17-day trial that includes six positions and three temperatures, where the average daily deviation has to remain within -3 and +5 seconds. Passing the trial results in the “Certificate of Compliance” that accompanies each watch.

The brand’s first new mechanical movement in a decade, the Caliber 0200 was possible in part thanks to Citizen’s acquisition of La Joux-Perret in 2012. A movement specialist based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, La Joux-Perret is historically known for its chronographs, particularly calibres based on the Valjoux 7750.

According to Citizen, the Caliber 0200 was constructed in house, but the movement decoration was modelled on the work done at La Joux-Perret, a “fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures”.

Most notable is the linear brushed finishing on the bridges, which are all outlined with wide, diamond-cut bevels – a detail often found in contemporary mid- to high-end Swiss movements. Even the jewels and screws sit in bevelled countersinks, while the screw heads and slots are chamfered.

Beyond the finishing, the movement also boasts several features that are a first for Citizen. Most obvious is the free-sprung balance wheel with four spokes each carrying on regulating weight, which promises better isochronism and more stable timekeeping even when subject to shock.

The Caliber 0200 also features an escape wheel and pallet fork produced with LIGA (and most probably in nickel-phosporous) a lithography technique that results parts of exceptional precision and consistency.

The Citizen, integrated

In contrast to the more conservative designs that characterised The Citizen collection in the past, the new watch equipped with th Calibre 0200 is a distinct, modern design.

Described by Citizen as “lugless”, the case is clean, angular, and sharply finished. It is characterised by wide, flat planes in alternating brushed and polished finishes. Though the styling is fresh, the size is classical – 40 mm by 10.9 mm – and makes for a compact profile on the wrist.

And the unusual dial – covered in what Citizen labels “sand-ripple pattern” – is the result of electroforming, where metal is chemically deposited on a surface.

Below 12 o’clock sits the applied Citizen logo, as well as the “Eagle Mark” emblem of The Citizen line, which is electroformed as part of the dial surface.

The dauphine-shaped hands are diamond cut, resulting in razor-sharp edges and mirror-finished surfaces

Key facts and price

Citizen The Citizen
Ref. NC0200-90E

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.9 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Caliber 0200
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: No, regular collection
Availability: Starting fall 2021 at Citizen boutiques and retailers
Price: US$6,000; ¥550,000; 9,500 Singapore dollars (all excluding taxes)

For more, visit Citizenwatch-global.com.

Brought to you in partnership with Citizen.